...than Orchard Road.

If you've travelled for thousands or hundreds of miles, the last thing you want to see for your efforts is 'Borders'. Yes, shopping in Singapore is brilliant, and it is good value for money...you can get practically anything under the (rather hot) sun there (have I mentioned that local attempts at fashion are simply gorgeous?!), but for the full cultural experience, might I suggest doing away with the whole 'package tour' deal. Since most Singaporeans speak English (charmingly referred to as 'Singlish') anyway, finding your way around will be no problem.

Do a little research before you go...If possible, get to know a few locals who might be able to take you off-the-beaten-track. Otherwise, a few simple questions at your hotel or any MRT station would usually get you facing in the right direction.

To start off, you can visit a wet market (the ground might be slippery, so wear an old pair of trainers with lots of grip), and the temples and shops in Chinatown or Little India. Sentosa is also a nice family resort if you have the time, and Haw Par Villa a themepark with a macabre difference. Singapore is not known as a food paradise for nothing...Authentic cuisines from all over the world are offered there, and at a very cheap price too!!! To cut costs, instead of room service at your hotel, sample the local fare at the outdoor Hawker Centres (email me if you want to know the best places to go, or the best foods to try). Most of them are open from early morning till late at night, some even 24/7. There are also Pasar Malams (night markets/bazaars) where you can haggle to your heart's content.

To learn the local history, take yourself down to the museums (or the waxworks at Sentosa if it's still there) or the Esplanade near Marina Bay, where you can enjoy the artistic endeavours of Southeast Asia.

As for the local transport, get yourself an EZLink Card, which works almost the same way as the Oyster card in London (you can even donate it to a good cause when you leave). Last time I was there, they did a very good deal for tourists, which would also earn you discounts at a few shops and restaurants. The EZLink Card can be used on the MRT and buses...But of course, you could always hire a trishaw!!!

If it is at all possible, arrange to go during the festive period (such as Chinese New Year, Hari Raya, Chingay, Deepavali or Thaipusam etc...even Christmas is an eye-opener there). Singapore might be tiny, but because of its mixed ethnic cultures, there is a lot to see. The nightlife is also particularly interesting. Boat Quay and Clarke Quay are a stretch of lively bars, restaurants, shops and clubs along the Singapore River. You can get a boat ride from one end to the other, and possibly view the Merlion statue whilst you're at it.

Other venues where you can mingle with the natives and overdose on Singapore sights and sounds are Fort Canning Park (where you can have a BBQ after a ramble), Mount Faber (there's an alfresco bar - Altivo - at the top of the hill), Chijmes (which was a convent school dating back to the old colonial days, now converted to something a little more trendy, and quite possibly sinful), Bugis Street (used to be a the unofficial 'gay district' where some of the old shophouses may still stand in their newly 'preserved' state, although Katong or Geylang might be better places for historical architecture if you don't mind the 'girly bars') etc etc...

There are loads more places which I have probably forgot to mention, but it's nothing a little 'Googling' around won't remedy...Here are a few sites to get you going:

• Uniquely Singapore (Official Guidebook)
• CIA World Factbook on Singapore
• BBC Country Profile on Singapore
• Singapore in Wikipedia
• Lonely Planet Guide to Singapore
• Move and Stay Guide
• Transitlink
• Singapore eCitizen
• Singapore Street Directory & Transport Guide

PS - The law doesn't actually ban the chewing of gum, but importing or selling it has been prohibited...No, I don't get it either. Still, it's one of the cleanest cities in the world, so they must be doing something right!